Dominant perspectives of Rio de Janeiro, and particularly its Zona Sul neighborhoods, as the emotional center of Brazil w ere enacted through constant references to local forms of cordialidade and informalidade that were seen as inherent to being Brazilian.25 Being an Ipanema resident came to be described as a set of cultivated cultural, social, and affective practices that required trekking a fine line between hierarchy and informality, democracy and elitism, heterogeneity and exclusivity, self-discipline and despojamento ([being] laid back).26 Ipanema has served as stage for a classic Leftist elite tension: a clear insistence on preserving Ipanemas status as a bairro nobre (traditional elite neighborhood), and a simultaneous critique of the eliticization of the old ps-sujos (hole-in-the- wall bars) into high-end commercial development (the enobrecimento de seus espaos, or upscaling of its spaces).27 The despojado, or down-to-earth, informal quality, for one, presumably challenged straightforward definitions of elite, as Eloisa Leme Palmeira, an Ipanema resident, highlighted: You really cant pin down what constitutes an elite here

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