I think it is partly that the dress (in the world, so to speak) is actually rather reflective: so the blue shows highlights that can easily be read as light and shade
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Juliet Helmke, "The Bloch Collection Takes up Residence in Kansas Citys Nelon Atkins Museum," Blouin ArtInfo International (March 15, 2017): Louise Nicholson, "How Kansas City got its magnificent museum," Apollo: The International Art Magazine (April 7, 2017): Lilly Wei, "Julin Zugazagoitia: Museums should generate interest and open a door that leads to further learning," Studio International (August 21, 2017):
They are part of the garments bodice rather than a separate sleeve pattern called an attached sleeve
When Phelps character starts talking about AIDS and getting tested there is a deeply moving sincerity that draws light to how gracefully she just accepts the slut-shaming thats being slung around because shes slept with many a man in her time