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Chef Once She Was an ArtKirpal Singh is Travelling on the Slow Train to Kashmir. As India Passes by the Window in a Stream of Tiny Lights, Glistening Fields and Huddled, Noisy Towns, He Reflects on His Destination, Which is Also His Past a Military Camp to Which He Has Not Returned for Fourteen Years. Kirpal, Kip to His Friends, is Timorous and Barely Twenty When He Arrives for the First Time at General Kumar's Camp, Nestled in the Shadow of the Mighty Siachen Glacier That